Arriving at sunset, rose-tinted skies shed a glow over Bonifacio’s impressive citadel that clings to the top of Point Timon. Undercut by fierce winds and sea, this precipitous limestone promontory resembles a ship’s prow facing the Bonifacio Strait and Sardinia beyond. Originally built by Bonifasce II of Tuscany in 828AD, the citadel was to defend Tuscany from North Africa. Within this fortress the old ‘upper town’ has evolved over the centuries and often likened to a museum or tourist site.
The newer ‘lower town’ is very much alive, lining the long thin fjord below and extending eastwards up the valley. The well-protected port attracts a wide range of pleasure craft, from simple schooners to luxury yachts, and it equally plays an important role for Bonifacio’s inhabitants and economy – originally based on fishing and trade between Corsica, Genoa, Sardinia, Marseille, Tunisia, Syria, amongst others. Bonifacians in fact believe that this very port featured in Homer’s Odyssey: ‘We put into that port, so well-known amongst sailors, where sheer double cliffs, with no gaps, encircle the harbour and two headlands squeeze the narrow entrance in their grasp’. This supposition could well be true, as this port is in a prime position in the middle of the Mediterranean’s sea routes – which equally puts it in danger of invasion. It was not until the 15th century that the port was developed to form the maritime quarter, now known as the ‘marina’. It even had its own defence system including a gateway and tower, portcullis and outer walls, but this was later demolished. A complete refurbishment in 1990 introduced cafés, restaurants and walkway along the harbour, which pleases visitors, shopkeepers and businesses, but has obviously changed community life in Bonifacio.
Back to the old town where we stayed for a few nights during our grand tour … this maze of narrow cobblestone streets is bordered by the towering façades of pale stone buildings. This pedestrianised zone is all the more tranquil for its lack of vehicles, but challenging when lugging heavy suitcases up its steep slopes. Likewise, the lofty buildings don’t seem so attractive when hauling our load five flights up! Our efforts were merited by a charming roof-top abode complete with terrace and reminiscent of Greece with its old wooden furniture thickly painted in bright blue and yellow. We were warmly welcomed by Laurence, the apartment manager, who enthusiastically described the town and its local delicacies, which we later sampled on market day. This takes place every Tuesday morning under the vaults of the former Arsenal Loggia, and offers a whole range of fare from clothes, jewellery and artifacts to seasonal fruit and vegetables, local honey and jams, plus a host of fragrant cheeses, russet charcuterie and Bonifacio specialities.
We enjoyed the ‘Pain de Bonifacio’, a brioche with nuts and raisins that is also known as ‘Pain des Morts’, commonly eaten during the All Saints’ festival, but equally available throughout the year.
The flavoursome ‘Aubergines à la bonifacienne’ are aubergines stuffed with its flesh mixed with eggs, breadcrumbs, garlic, basil and a hard goats cheese such as Corsican tomme. Baked in the oven they can be served hot with a tomato coulis or simply cold – perfect for an itinerant supper with a glass of Pietra.
This Corsican beer is crafted according to traditional methods and made with a select mixture of malts and flour ground from chestnuts – grown in the Castagniccia mountains. Pietra beer is amber in colour with a creamy head, and renowned for its rounded notes of chestnut, malt, caramel and bread/yeast with a slight bitterness. It equally pairs well with Corsican hard cheeses, charcuterie and local game dishes.
These specialities and more can be found in Bonifacio’s wide choice of restaurants; many perch on its prow vying for its stunning views, while others are tucked into cozy corners of its winding streets.
Bonifacio has strong religious traditions with five churches and five brotherhoods, of which the two oldest (Sainte-Croix and Saint-Jean-Baptiste) date back to the 13th century. The functions of the brotherhoods evolved from the Gospel of Saint Matthew: feed the hungry, give water to the thirsty, clothe the naked, visit the sick, welcome strangers and bury the dead; but today their practice is more about spiritual outreach and conviviality. The brotherhoods take part in processions throughout the year, each with their reliquaries to honour their saints. I fortuitously witnessed the ‘Exaltation of the Cross’, which happen to be during our September visit to Bonifacio. My lyrical jottings in a corner café were interrupted by the St Croix brotherhood parading their crucifix and cumbersome effigy of the Madonna. They looked like Pied Pipers as they chanted reverential prayers to attract the faithful.
We completed our explorations in fragrant fields of rosemary, otherwise known as the ‘Campu rumanilu’, which border a paved path along Bonifacio’s clifftops. From here we admired Bonifacio’s natural heritage, notably its famed sea stack ‘Le Grain de sable’ and its azure waters stretching to Sardinia, just 11 kilometres away.
