Standing like opponents in a duel, Cargèse’s Greek and Latin churches ostensibly reside in harmony. Built at the beginning of the 19th century, these noteworthy shrines bear witness to Cargèse’s colourful history, principally its origins ... the town of Cargèse and its church of St Spyridon were in fact especially built for a Greek community fleeing the Ottoman oppression. Cargèse naturally evolved with the addition of coveting Corsicans who equally established their own house of God – the Church of the Assumption.
Both churches appointed the same Russian artist, along with a group of apprentices, who adorned their spiritual interiors with gilded pastel murals. The intricately decorated iconostasis of the Greek church gains my favour, particularly how it sharply contrasts with its sparse interior – which actually is the traditional style devoid of altar, statues, organ or stoups.
The town itself is relatively modest with its well-maintained stone houses lining meandering streets – rather reminiscent of Italy or Sicily in retro films. The main thoroughfare caters more for tourists offering postcards and beach paraphernalia, this time resembling a seaside town in the 70s/80s.
On the edge of town the sombre salon of ‘Café du Bon Accueil’ belies its splendid balcony view of Cargèse’s famed churches – if you are lucky enough to get one of three tables. And the surly owner is the antithesis of welcoming, barely saying more than a grunt – even on subsequent visits.
Located in the vicinity of the churches are a couple of understated restaurants – L’Ortu, a creperie, and Le Yuka set in a terraced garden overlooking the ocean and St Spyridon. Le Yuka’s healthy contemporary food is complemented by its boho-eco-style, peculiar to the Med: comfy chairs laden with cushions in attractive prints, shaded by canvas umbrellas and bordered by plants – notably, a tall Yuka.
Crackly music from an old gramophone leads any curious passer-by to yet another brocante, this time in a modest house flanked by an aged ratan sofa strewn with patchwork quilts. Like Aladdin’s cave, room after room display an abundance of attractive artifacts. The owner was nowhere to be seen when I visited, so obviously very trusting &/or completely laissez-faire.
This Pandora’s box must provoke many a dream of decorating a new or second home … But one thinks twice when seeing the foreboding graffiti on foreign home owners’ walls (more than likely French) – the surly café owner is obviously not the only unwelcoming resident of this community, whose rivalries appear to continue beneath its glossy surface.
