Bastia is a charming coastal town on the
north-east of the island, with its well-preserved Citadel, characterful Old
Port and extensive Place St Nicolas.
Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the impressive esplanade of St Nicolas is bordered by majestic palms and centuries old plane trees. It is popular amongst Bastians and tourists alike who gather on the terraces of the lively restaurants in the former bourgeois buildings – which include the vintage style Mattei store with its famed liqueur. The circular bandstand plays host to a full calendar of events throughout the year, and there is a very good flea market every Sunday morning. The square even has a war memorial and a statue of Napoleon as a Roman emperor; what’s more it is also home to the Bastia tourist office.
A stroll along Rue Napoleon leads to ‘Terra Vecchia’, considered to be the oldest part of the city consistently inhabited by Corsicans long before the Genoese established the Citadel. It is characterised by cobbled streets meandering up steep walkways that filter between tall buildings. Typifying Corsican architecture, the towering stone structures are commonly painted in shades of mustard or terracotta; their multiple floors denoted by rows of tiny windows flanked by blue or green shutters. Buildings that have fallen into disrepair still retain a certain charm with their swags of washing flapping across stone bricks and weathered plaster.
The hub of this old quartier is Place du Marché or ‘u mercà ’, the former site of the Hôtel de Ville. This square comes alive every weekend as people flock to its colourful market stalls laden with aromatic produce – be it spicy sausages, grassy goats cheeses, fragrant flowers or sugary sweet canistrelli. Cafés and restaurants offer refreshment to a whole spectrum of clientele, tourists and locals of mixed ages; whilst musical groups play melodies, from Corsican ballads to contemporary pop.
Adjoining this market place is the opulent baroque-style St Jean-Baptiste church that stands one street behind the Old Port. Its two large bell towers loft over tall buildings that girdle the ovoid-shaped harbour. Tipped with red and green beacons, the sweeping breakwaters provide protection for approaching vessels, including the yachts and colourful fishing boats that neatly line the jetties … whereas lively terrace cafés & restaurants encircle the quayside.
Built during the 14th century by Genoese, the ramparts and gate of the ancient Citadel are listed as historical monuments, along with the facades and roof of the Governors' Palace (now home to the museum) and two churches: Sainte-Croix church and Sainte-Marie cathedral. Known as ‘Terra Nova’, the area around the Citadel is mostly residential and renowned for being the exclusive part of Bastia. Some of its houses were initially built for notable gentry with the permission of the Genoese republic.
Jardin Romieu clings to the slopes between the Citadel and the Old Port. A cobblestone path allows pedestrians to wander down hill in the shade of its verdant trees, before descending its monumental staircase on the south quay of the Old Port. Visit this grand escalier in the tranquil hours of the morning to watch the sun slowly rise from the horizon into the sky - a perfect way to start a new day.
