Curious Contrasts in Southern Sri Lanka
Embark upon a voyage of diverse discoveries along Sri Lanka’s southern coast … From beautiful beaches off the beaten track to colourful culture in the heart of a Sri Lankan home. And history comes alive in the ancient port of Galle where exotic goods were traded in the time of Abraham. Or simply relax in an eco-lodge offering timeless tranquillity in Sri Lanka’s luscious landscape.
Characterful Coves
As you descend from the fragrant plantations of Sri Lanka’s green heights, the air is freshened by salty breezes from the crashing waves of its southern shores. Outlying reefs provide protection to the secluded palm-fringed coastline, while forming shallow lagoons for a few fishing boats or the occasional local bather. There is a certain serenity associated with a somnolent Sunday when time seems to take on a different meaning … And there is no better place to spend a day of rest than Mirissa, a small coastal town whose attractive beach offers relaxation under a palm-thatched umbrella. Its foamy crests entice energetic surfers and its coral reefs inspire keen snorkelers; while others come for its impressive sightings of whales, dolphins and turtles.
Mirissa has a certain hippy vibe that sets it apart from Sri Lanka’s typical tourist trail. Pastel coloured beach shacks sell healthy juices and the latest in vegan cuisine – popular favourites among its beatnik clientele. The beach is equally frequented by the locals, particularly at the weekend when small groups gather for picnics or ball games. The town itself is dotted with cafés and restaurants, together with small shops selling local artifacts and surfing paraphernalia. There is range of places to stay to suit every budget, from hostels to boutique hotels, as well as eco-lodges and ayurvedic yoga retreats.
Home Is Where the Heart Is
Further accommodation can be found in a hospitable homestay that provides an authentic insight into Sri Lanka’s domestic culture. Dotted along the southern coast there are many host families inviting guests to their homes – often rather modest, yet creatively decorated in a bright palette evocative of Mexican casas. This creativity extends to welcoming touches, be it pleated bedspreads adorned with fragrant flowers or fresh juice topped with tropical fruit.
Although respectfully revered, guests may be asked to help prepare the evening meal. Commonly adept in the art of cuisine, their Sri Lankan hosts skilfully choreograph this gastronomic performance – grating, slicing, sautéing an array of herbs, spices and vegetables. This pan-frying dance is akin to a culinary ballet producing a grand finale of subtly spiced vegetable dishes to tantalise the tastebuds. This sumptuous feast is generally eaten together; and while Westerners enjoy conversation, most Sri Lankans relish their meal in silence – social discussion is usually before the meal. Cutlery may well be provided for guests, but Sri Lankan hosts traditionally eat with the fingers of their right hand. This custom originates from Eastern religions that consider the right hand to be ‘noble’ and the left hand to be ‘unclean’ as it is used for bodily hygiene. Another Eastern tradition is to leave a small amount of food on your plate to indicate satiety, whereas a clean plate signifies that you are still hungry.
Sri Lankan hosts tend to retire to slumber soon after the evening meal, and then wake early to prepare a breakfast for their guests. This normally consists of fresh fruit, ‘pol roti’ (coconut flat bread) or ‘hoppers’ (semi-spherical pancakes), which may be accompanied by lentil dahl or curry – all served with herb-infused tea. Although Sinhala is the common language, many Sri Lankans have a basic knowledge of English; so, with the help of sign language, guests can strike up a good rapport with their hosts and some even stay in touch with these generous-hearted families. On a parting note, gifts such as a memento of the guest’s home country make a nice gesture of thanks.
Historical Treasure
The charming coves of this southern coast are equally famed for their stilt-fishermen. Popularised by an iconic photograph from the 90s, this stilt-fishing method is sadly no longer economical, so is seldom practised. The few stilt-fishermen that remain are now earning more money posing for photographs or teaching tourists this bygone skill.
By contrast, the common technique now used in Sri Lanka is ‘beach seine’ or ‘drag-net’ fishing, which involves encircling a large area of water with a net to entrap a considerable quantity of fish. This is a customary sight when entering the town of Galle by way of its bountiful bays. Crowds frequently gather round to watch a merry band of men ‘play tug-of-war’ as they heave on ropes hauling their winnings ashore. This daily catch is usually destined for the fish market lining the roadside behind the beach. Shaded by corrugated awnings, these makeshift stalls are laden with shiny fish – including those caught at the crack of dawn by local fishermen whose colourful wooden boats and tangled nets punctuate the beach.
Beyond this hive of present day activity is ‘Galle Fort’, steadfastly resisting the passage of time upon its rocky peninsula. Within the walls of this robust fortification is an attractive residential community whose quiet tree-lined streets and well-preserved buildings invite you to simply amble and take in the surroundings.
Some travel reviews misleadingly wax lyrically about Galle Fort’s pastels, yet in reality the majority of the buildings are whitewashed or sand coloured. The local architecture reflects the styles of former colonial powers (Portuguese, Dutch and British) harmonised with Sri Lankan designs ornately carved in wood or cast in stonework. The buildings are well-adapted to the local climate: verandas and balconies offer outdoor living space, while louvered windows allow indoor ventilation; then shutters are used to keep out heat and daylight as well as inclement weather. Further insulation is provided by the barrel-shaped terracotta roof tiles, equally favoured for their durability.
Long before the arrival of Western seafarers or colonists, Galle was a key maritime trading port on the Spice Route (from Eastern China to Western Europe). Local cinnamon was exported to the Middle East, as far back as 2,000 B.C.; and ivory and peacocks were sent to King Solomon!
It was then in the 16th century that the Portuguese instigated the fortification of Galle, which was somewhat by default as it had merely been their haven in a storm. The Dutch subsequently seized Galle in the mid-17th century when lending their support to the Sinhalese, peeved by the Portuguese presence in their country. The fortress and community were greatly transformed by these Dutch colonists, improving the housing and the infrastructure – their state-of-the-art sewerage system still exists today! Changing events in Europe led to the British rule of ‘Ceylon’ from 1796. Their new name for the country was not dissimilar to the Dutch ‘Seylon’, which evolved from the Portuguese ‘Ceilao’ based on the Latin ‘Seelan’, commonly used in Europe at that time.
The successful tea and rubber plantations of the British era not only popularised the nation of Ceylon across the globe, but also gave rise to further development of Galle harbour and refinements to the existing infrastructure. Elegant houses and ‘home comforts’ were provided for the plantation owners, including libraries, billiard rooms, tennis courts and even a race-course! Banks and other financial institutions were established, along with a postal and telegraph system; trains were also introduced, followed by motor cars – long before the arrival of the ubiquitous ‘tuk-tuk’ auto-rickshaw.
Galle Fort’s vibrant history has created a multi-ethnic and multi-religious population – principally artists, writers, photographers, designers and poets – that lives together in harmony. Totalling approximately 90,000, over half of these are Sinhalese, followed by a strong Moor presence; the rest are either Malay, Eurasian or expatriates of the former colonies. The small businesses reflect this arty multi-cultural community: cafés serve gelatos and espressos, while chic restaurants offer fusion cuisine; and boutiques sell handmade ornate accessories and embroidered, printed clothing. Authentically maintained and restored, the impressive colonial-style hotels include ‘The Galle Fort Hotel’, said to be ‘a living piece of history’. Dutch street signs also echo a bygone era; and the name Ceylon is nostalgically present, from commercial signs to retro souvenirs. It is still considered by some to symbolise prestige, despite the official name change to ‘Sri Lanka’ (resplendent island) when it became a republic in 1972.
The preservation of Galle Fort is largely due to its previous trading wealth, as well its governance over the years. The current Heritage Foundation and affiliate institutions clearly work hard to protect, preserve and develop the Fort’s history and archaeology – thereby meriting its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The ancient interior is equally protected by its ramparts, resilient over the centuries and thankfully not breached by the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004.
Galle Fort is certainly a unique place, ideally visited at leisure with time to stop and stare and enjoy many an enchanting tale while sipping tea in the shade of a veranda.
Back to Nature
By contrast, you can discover Sri Lanka’s rustic reality by meandering along a bumpy dirt track, through cattle fields and palm tree plantations, that takes you to the ecolodge, ‘Huma Terra’ – the promise of good fortune. You will be greeted by your host, Jean-Loup, a French expat who is nevertheless very much at home, commonly attired in a Sri Lankan sarong; while his long hair, beard and sun-weathered face gives him a rather bohemian air. Jean-Loup’s quiet demeanour may hide his warm-hearted character, but this will doubtlessly emerge during your stay … starting with him gallantly carrying your suitcases up the steep steps to your unique accommodation. Cradled in the branches of a large tree, this enchanting abode is reminiscent of childhood fairy tales.
Huma Terra is a perfect place for an eco-retreat – literally in the heart of nature. Strategically located for tranquil privacy, each of its five treehouses is a circular structure wrapped around a tree trunk and topped with palms. Mosquito screens replace walls and windows, creating an open-air ambiance. The carefully thought-out design and construction, in locally-sourced quality materials, reflect the unrelenting dedication of Jean-Loup and his French wife Solange. Having spent a substantial length of time searching to find the best location, it took several years of hard work before finally realising their dream. Surrounded by palm forest and rice fields, they had evidently found the ideal terrain – complete with freely roaming animals and family donkey peering from his pasture. The property itself is naturally landscaped with an array of tropical plants and flowers. Harmonised with this flora and fauna are the wooden cabanas housing the lounge area, dining room, bar and kitchen; next to which is the pool whose dark jade tiles merge with the verdant vegetation beyond its infinity edge.
Amongst her many roles, Solange is the chef de cuisine, who creatively prepares gourmet dishes using fresh local ingredients. And breakfast, or should I say ‘petit déjeuner’, is very French with ‘pain et confiture’ and even a Sri Lankan croissant known as ‘kimbula banis’. They also serve pressed juice and local eggs; and the pièce de resistance is the freshly ground coffee – a welcomed contrast to the instant Nescafé that Sri Lankans proudly offer to tourists!
It is a truly beautiful place to spend a few days simply unwinding, reading, swimming or even exploring the environs of Huma Terra through forest and fields – where you may occasionally come across a small dwelling or a few curious children, friendly dogs or locals going about their day.
Huma Terra is the perfect place to end this southern jaunt, where you can reflect upon fond memories of curious contrasts on this resplendent island.
