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| Pouso Alegre Lodge |
Like Alice in Wonderland, I grew
curiouser and curiouser when planning a long-awaited trip to Brazil.
Little did I know that the Amazon rainforest had a close rival boasting even more
wildlife species. I eagerly read the pros and cons of these two contenders, fervently
debated on adventure travel forums. All this threatened my fine-tuned travel
schedule, yet how could I possibly ignore this extraordinary location whose
name kept appearing before my eyes: The Pantanal, the world’s largest tropical
wetlands.
Further research informed me that The Pantanal is one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet where thousands of bird, plant, fish and reptile species live in its vast lakes, lagoons, rivers and marshes. My appetite had been sufficiently whetted for me to adjust my trip to include this extraordinary location.
I promptly set about looking for accommodation, sifting through and rejecting modern setups that considered swimming pools and similar comforts a priority. Likewise, I dismissed those that looked too makeshift and not in-keeping with the rustic surroundings. I then stumbled across Pousada Pouso Alegre located in The Pantanal in the central-west Brazilian state of Mato Grosso. In the midst of flora and fauna, this lodge was established in the 90s by the Silva Campos family. I proceeded to correspond with the son of the founder, Luiz Vicente da Silva Campos Filho, whose relaxed character was to reflect the simplicity and authenticity of the lodge.
No sooner had my booking and organising finished than I was packing and flying off to the fascinating country of Brazil. After a swift tour of Rio, vowing to make a return visit, we flew to Cuiabá some 133km from our lodge. We had been recommended to hire a car, ‘one that is higher because of bumps on roads’.We promptly chose a four-wheel drive jeep, which we did indeed need when faced with deep tracks in the terracotta terrain, obviously carved by vehicles during the rainy season.
Luiz had sent us rather scant instructions on how to find the lodge, which were indicative of the isolated character of this area. I had been somewhat sceptical but they proved to be accurate: ‘Take the Transpantaneira road towards Porto Jofre. Look out for a police station, a gate and a solitary bar. Turn right, cross two bridges … and after several hundred metres you will find the lodge.’
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| Rickety Bridge |
Bird of Prey
Known as the gateway to the Northern Pantanal, the
Transpantaneira road is a single straight dirt track for 150km, its final
destination being the settlement of Porto Jofre. It crosses over 100 wooden
bridges, most of which seem in desperate need of repair and require a hope and a
prayer to cross. This neglect reflects the absence of human presence, which is
of benefit to the wildlife allowed to prosper in peace. The road is thus an ideal opportunity to
observe flora and fauna ... ‘A veritable natural
trail’ to quote a renowned travel guide’s description of the Transpantaneira.
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| Tapir |
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| Rhea |
This is no exaggeration; the plethora of wildlife was like a welcome party staged by our lodge. Together with thin-legged egrets, we spotted many birds of prey nonchalantly strolling by the side of the road, totally oblivious to our presence. As we approached the lodge we passed what looked like a cross between a pig and a hippo wallowing in a pool of muddy water. It was neither of these creatures but a tapir, a herbivorous animal with a short prehensile nose. We were later greeted by a family of rhea elegantly parading around the grounds of the lodge. These flightless South American ostriches were equally indifferent to our existence, exemplifying their trust of humankind.
And this was no surprise given the farm-like surroundings of the lodge where wildlife lives in harmony with the nature-loving people that visit, live or work there. We were warmly greeted by Luiz who showed us around the simple yet comfortable dormitory-style guest accommodation, complete with mosquito screens, ceiling fans and outdoor hammocks. We then enjoyed a healthy lunch of fresh local fare, including creative bean and vegetable dishes, with meat options, all served with rice or potatoes. This hearty fortifying cuisine provided vital energy for adventurous nature seekers.
It was November and thus a quiet period for tourists. We
were in the sole company of two avid camouflage-clad ‘twitchers’ from Spain, complete
with impressive looking cameras with telescopic tripods and telephoto zoom
lenses. They enthusiastically explored the grounds at sunrise and often brought
their finds to breakfast – notably a wriggly black snake that was supposedly harmless.
The lodge offered wildlife spotting safaris on foot, horseback, by jeep or canoe. Whilst perusing over the options, we learned some interesting facts about The Pantanal – little known to many. Stretching across three South American countries (Bolivia, Brazil and Paraguay) for more than 42 million acres, The Pantanal is the largest tropical freshwater wetland in the world. By definition, a wetland is an area of land covered by water, be it saltwater, freshwater or even a combination of the two. This gigantic ecosystem is an ideal habitat for wildlife, providing protection of species while sustaining their reproduction. There is thus a high concentration of wildlife, outshining the Amazon in number and variety.
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| Caiman |
This includes the endangered jaguar and its caiman prey whose relative densities are greater than anywhere else in the world. Part of the alligator family, caiman have scaly skin and live a fairly nocturnal existence. They inhabit Central and South America, from marshes and swamps to mangroves, rivers and lakes.
The Pantanal is home to approximately 3,500 plant species, 650 bird species, 325 fish species, 150 mammals, 50 amphibians and 100 reptiles, including jaguars, caimans, capybaras (native to South America, the world’s largest living rodent), tapirs, coatis, rheas, giant otters, anteaters, armadillos, capuchin and black howler monkeys, toco toucans and hyacinth macaws (the largest parrot on the planet). The Pantanal also supports human life by sustaining the livelihoods of millions of inhabitants of South American communities.
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| Capybara |
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| Howler Monkey |
We chose a guided safari on-foot that took us across grassland and swamp areas where we spotted numerous colourful birds clinging to the rushes. A family of capybara casually scouted the earth for food, whereas stripy tailed coatis playfully dashed in and out of the bushes. As we wandered through forests, passing trees with wide buttress roots, our sharp-eyed guide pointed out lace-like toadstools and gigantic spiders on thick sticky webs. While howler monkeys jumped from tree to tree living up to their name with their wild cries.
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| Dwarf Owl |
We also opted for a night safari
by jeep, to give us another perspective of the wildlife. It was rather eerie to
see the beady golden eyes of caimans opening and closing their fearsome snouts
in the shallow waters. Anteaters equally like to roam in the dark hours, often
in groups; whereas a lone dwarf owl twirled its head and greeted us with a
shrill hoot.
The rest of our time was spent relaxing in our hammock on the terrace, swatting up on wildlife we had seen and other potential sightings. Scattered across its extensive property, the lodge had a host of trails that we explored independently at a leisurely pace. These gave access to diverse environments, from dry to flooded forests, savannahs and swamps, each rich with species of The Pantanal.
Whether a novice or a wildlife enthusiast, The Pantanal gives visitors a first-hand experience of nature in an isolated environment – where your encounters will have you grinning like a Cheshire cat!
Having given my amateur viewpoint of The Pantanal, I thought it would be interesting to ask a couple of experts their main reasons for visiting these wetlands:
Luiz Vincente da Silva Campos Filho, owner of Pousada Pouso Alegre:
‘The Pantanal is an ecological region that is rich with animal and plant species from different South American biome. It is easier to observe natural life in The Pantanal because the landscapes are more open and offer better views. Visiting The Pantanal is an opportunity to experience nature that has not been affected by a human presence.’
Rebecca Field, renowned wildlife photographer:
‘The Pantanal is an ideal destination for adventurous nature lovers, offering an enormous variety of birds, mammals and fish – all unspoiled by human development. Jaguars were at the top of my list as a reason for going there, together with birds. A birder would be overwhelmed by the sightings of so many species, notably the hyacinth macaw, jabiru and toco toucan. The Pantanal is a rewarding photography destination where one can easily discover and photograph rarely seen wonders of nature. The Pantanal provides a broadening, life-enriching experience like no other and is simply unforgettable.’
