Su Gologone, Sardinia 2024

 

  

Nestled in the verdant mountainside of Barbagia in Sardinia is the unique hotel Su Gologone. This white-washed stone building with its terracotta roof is camouflaged within creatively landscaped gardens abundant with fragrant junipers, aloe veras, prickly pears and tropical palms. 

 

It was the month of August and we were to spend three nights in this wonderful location, honouring my husband Philip’s special birthday. 

 

Named after a natural spring, Su Gologone was initially established as a restaurant in 1967 by Giuseppe ‘Peppeddu’ Palimodde. With the help of his wife, Pasqua Salis Palimodde, they offered traditional Sardinian cuisine. This sumptuous fare gained popularity attracting people from different parts of the island and even further afield. This
success led Peppeddu and Pasqua to provide accommodation for their clientele, initially eight rooms which have since increased to seventy-one. This artistically furnished accommodation has been so cleverly designed that the rooms are almost hidden within the mountainside, leaving guests to feel like they are staying in a rustic farmhouse. Su Gologone is now managed by three generations of the Palimodde family, Pasquia, her daughter Giovanna and her granddaughter Camilla. Together they share their love of the island and its artistic and culinary culture with their guests. This hospitality is equally shown by their staff, which adds to the warm ambiance of Su Gologone.

 

 

The beautiful arts and crafts that furnish Su Gologone can be found in the Botteghe d’Arte. Colourful embroidery and textiles sit alongside ceramics and glassware, as well as woodwork and wrought iron creations. In addition you can find beauty and household products made with essential oils from locally grown aromatic herbs. All of these have been created by skilled artisans who offer guests the opportunity to learn their trade.

 

 

Each evening we enjoyed sipping apéritifs in the Bar Magico Tablao, watching the sun go down whilst lounging under canvas awnings on the tapestry cushion-strewn white wooden benches. Open to the public as well as guests, this select venue attracts sophisticated clientele parading the latest fashion trends. 

 

 

From here we would wander to one of the themed restaurants, starting with l’Orto (vegetable garden) on our first night. We dined under the stars overlooking neatly planted rows of herbs and vegetables safeguarded by a colourful scarecrow. The creative garden-to-table tasting menu consisted of carefully combined ingredients exuding exquisite flavours. We particularly enjoyed the Sardinian pasta, fregola, served with a mélange of roasted vegetables. We sat on multi-coloured wooden chairs surrounding a juniper table over which vine tomatoes, chilli peppers and aromatic herbs were decoratively suspended. It was certainly a memorable moment to be savoured.

 

 

The next night we enjoyed Il Nido del Pane (Nest of Bread) where we witnessed the ancient art of breadmaking in the old wood-fired oven. We were greeted by the chefs dressed in traditional Sardinian costumes busy at work creating dishes whose aromas whetted our appetites. We dined on the open-air roof terrace where we were presented with creative culinary concoctions such as cocconeddas (a type of gourd) filled with potatoes and wild herbs, flat bread topped with roasted cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves … concluded with a meringue nest filled with ricotta and blueberry compote.

 

 

 

After this splendid meal we wandered down to the Terrace of Dreams and Desires where a group of local tenors performed traditional accapella folk songs. Dressed in black these five gentlemen stood in a circle facing one another as they sang. It was fascinating to hear a part of the island’s musical heritage.

 

 

Our final night’s meal was in the formal dining room, otherwise known as The Traditional Restaurant, which overlooked the gardens and mountainside beyond. Its colourful wooden furniture was bedecked with place settings for its honoured guests, while senses were aroused by the aromas coming from the rustic fireplace where whole pigs were being slowly roasted on spits. We perused the menu that began with al dente petit pois, asparagus and porcini mushrooms from the kitchen garden. This was followed by a variety of homemade pasta dishes from which I selected a delicious wild fennel ravioli. Philip chose the roasted pork accompanied by crunchy potatoes. The chefs at the hotel are skilled in preparing fine Sardinian cuisine following recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation, offering guests an authentic culinary experience. 

 

 

This extends to the opulent breakfast that we savoured every day, from freshly pressed fruit juices to different types of yoghurt, including local goat. There was a choice of toasted granola and muesli, along with homemade bread fresh from the oven. Ten different types of baked cakes were made with healthy ingredients such as berries, stone or citrus fruit and sprinkled with roasted almonds. The colourful fruit platter included peaches, apricots and honeydew melon. Whilst there was a variety of cheeses and charcuterie or eggs of your choice.

 

Breakfast was followed by time relaxing by the extensive pool, where we swam in the refreshing water and read books lounging on sunbeds under the shade of a parasol. There were very few people frequenting the pool area, creating a peaceful ambiance and allowing me to swim laps practically undisturbed. I had the pleasure of a therapeutic massage in the spa, where a skilled masseuse used firm manoeuvres to ‘relax muscles and improve circulation’, while applying a fragrant essential oil. I certainly felt its calming benefits afterwards.

 

One afternoon we explored the environs, walking the 10 minutes down to Su Gologone natural spring where water cascaded over boulders. I found a prickly pear whose sweet syrupy fruit I foolishly tasted thinking that I could avoid the fine prickles. Instead a couple of invisible thorns embedded themselves in my bottom lip and left me feeling like a bee had stung my lip – I certainly learned my lesson. Another afternoon we walked in the mountains and saw a shepherd’s hut made out of a circular stone base on top of which sat a wigwam of sticks. The stone base could be confused with a nuraghe, an ancient megalithic edifice found in Sardinia and built during the Nuragic Age between 1900 and 730 BC. The use of these nuraghes is disputed, some say they were sovereigns’ residences, military strongholds, meeting places or religious temples; while others claim they were ordinary dwellings or used for a combination of these purposes. 

 

 

 

Our elegantly decorated room was a comfortable place to spend time with its traditional furnishings combined with designer pieces as well as locally embroidered bedlinen and cushions. We could equally stretch out on the daybed under an awning on the terrace whilst perusing one of the beautifully illustrated art books. 

 

 

This was our first visit to Sardinia and our magical experience at Su Gologone certainly enhanced our impression of the country and its culture. It was the perfect way to celebrate a significant birthday and we would love to return there one day in the foreseeable future.