SICILY 2023 

Trapani

Trapani is an interesting historic town where we ambled down its wide pedestrianised streets bordered with terraced restaurants, boutiques and churches. Wandering along its crescent-shaped coastline, we discovered the fish market where a fisherman was hosing down the stalls after a busy morning selling his catch. This had obviously been caught in the early hours of dawn and in one of the many wooden fishing boats moored in the harbour. Trapani’s pebble beach looked rather sad, strewn with dried seaweed and dotted with parasols whose palm fronds were dry and wilted. Perhaps it looked cheerier in the height of summer versus mid-September, but who were we to worry when our main focus was the historic places of interest, notably Segesta. 

 



 

Segesta

In the midst of a barren hillside we found the temple of Segesta, a magnificent example of a well-preserved archaeological site. Built in the 5th century BC, it was never actually completed. The roof and interior may be missing, but its solid stone structure and over 30 doric columns make it one of Sicily’s most important historic sites. We visited Segesta in the late afternoon when there were very few people around, which allowed us to spend time exploring the temple letting our imaginations conjure up images of life over 2,500 years ago. We then hiked up to the nearby 3rd century BC ancient Greek amphitheatre, which looked perfectly intact. In fact a modern stage with sound and lighting systems indicated that it is still in use all these centuries later.

 



 

 

 

 

 

Erice

We spent an afternoon wandering around the cobbled streets of the medieval hilltop town of Erice, which we reached by cable car affording panoramic vistas of the western coast of Sicily (albeit passing over rather scruffy wasteland above the characterless suburb of Trapani). There was little sign of life in this museum-like village, just a few tourists discovering its Norman castle, ancient temple and medieval churches. We managed to stumble across the retro-style Domus Blanca, which described itself as a ‘boutique and lounge bar’ while also welcoming you to its ‘secret garden’. This turned out to be an attractive courtyard with jade-green bistro furniture. The menu looked rather good for another time, but on this occasion we simply enjoyed sipping fragrant espressos under the twisted branches of an aged wisteria.