MACHU PICCHU, PERU 2016

We caught the train to Aguas Calientes, the base where one stays in order to visit Machu Picchu. The town itself was consequently overrun by tourists enjoying its themed restaurants serving international food versus local Peruvian cuisine. Our hotel was a saving grace, a boutique hotel a distance away from this commercial centre. Our room overlooked the river below whose fast flowing water cascaded over large boulders. Traditional tapestries decorated the walls and floor of our room, and also served as a bedspread. A large log fire helped to take the chill off the room, while creating a cosy ambiance. We enjoyed relaxing in the jacuzzi, complete with flickering candles that enhanced its calming effects. We managed to find a traditional restaurant close to our hotel, albeit rather stark and characterless. Thankfully its food made up for its misgivings; I relished a trout ceviche served with corn and sweet potato. 

 

It was then an early night in readiness for our five o’clock start the next day, soon after which we were met by a very long line of people queuing for the five-thirty bus to Machu Picchu. For approximately thirty minutes the said bus wound its way up the zig-zagging road that seemed to get steeper and steeper. We passed by many hardy and determined hikers, similar to pilgrims on a religious pursuit.

On our arrival we decided to avoid the tourists flocking into the citadel by climbing the large mountain, Machu Picchu. We scaled its steep stone steps for a good hour and a half, which was somewhat challenging, especially as we had very few pauses to rest, endeavouring to get to the top for its magnificent views. It was a rather precarious path, no guard rails to protect hikers from the sheer cliff face. At the summit we had a breathtaking view of the citadel, built at an elevation of 2,350 metres on a saddle between the sharp peaks of Huayna Picchu and Macchu Pichu, high above the Urubamba River flowing in the valley below. We had brought along our book of poems by Pablo Neruda, ‘The Heights of Machu Picchu’, which made for very poignant reading in situ.

 

 

 

 

The descent was relatively easier and we also took time to enjoy a picnic lunch followed by a coffee in the Belmond café. By the time we went back to the citadel it was practically devoid of tourists. It was rather surreal exploring this 15^th century Inca fortress, imagining how it used to be all those years ago. Still intact, the walls and foundations within the fortress were miraculously fused together without any mortar. I was in awe of the Inca’s advanced expertise, cleverly aligning buildings to harmonise with the astronomical environment thereby guiding their agricultural practices. Hidden in the deep forest, the Incas of Machu Picchu managed to escape detection by the Spaniards; it was not until 1911 that explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered this ancient fortress. 

 

The Heights of Macchu Picchu

By Pablo Naruda

 

Then up the ladder of the earth I climbed

through the barbed jungle’s thickets

until I reached you Macchu Picchu.

 

Tall city of stepped stone,

home at long last of whatever earth

had never hidden in her sleeping clothes.

In you two lineages that had run parallel

met where the cradle both of man and light

rocked in the wind of thorns.

 

Mother of stone and sperm of condors.

 

High reef of human dawn.

 

Spade buried in primordial sand.

 

This was the habitation, this is the site:

here the fat grains of maize grew high

to fall again like red hail.

 

The fleece of the vicuña was carded here

to clothe men’s loves in gold, their tombs and mothers,

the king, the prayer, the warriors.

 

Up here men’s feet found rest at night

near eagles’ talons in the high

meat-stuffed eyries. And in the dawn

with thunder steps they trod the thinning mists,

touching the earth and stones that they might recognize

that touch come night, come death.

 

I gaze at clothes and hands,

traces of shed water in the booming cistern,

a wall burnished by the touch of a face

that witnessed with my eyes the earth’s carpet of tapers,

oiled with my hands the vanished wood:

for everything, apparel, skin, pots, words,

wine, loaves, had disappeared,

fallen to earth.

 

And the air came in with lemon blossom fingers

to touch those sleeping faces:

a thousand years of air, months, weeks of air,

blue wind and iron cordilleras –

these came with gentle footsteps hurricanes

cleansing the lonely precinct of the stone.

The following day proceeded at a more relaxed pace, enjoying a lie-in while reflecting on the previous day’s events. This was before catching the train to Ollantaytambo from where we travelled by taxi to Cusco. We spent the best part of the afternoon at San Pedro market, a diverse mix of local fresh food, including huge sacks of different types of quinoa alongside many varieties of potatoes – Peru is said to have over 4,000 potato species in a multitude of colours ranging from yellow to purple, pink, blue and red. In addition to this were stalls selling meat, cheeses, bread, fruit and vegetables as well as flowers and artisanal goods – mainly textiles such as ponchos, sweaters, scarves, blankets and tapestries, all made from fine alpaca wool. There was also ‘street food’ on offer, which was popular with locals and tourists alike.

Not far from the market we found a coffee specialist, selling a host of different types of beans in a variety of strengths and flavours, each with incredibly rich aromas. We took his recommendation and had an espresso that was velvety on the palate with a delicate balance of sweet and bitter notes.

 

We then walked to the San Blas quarter, often referred to as the historic cultural district of Cusco where there are many art galleries interspersed with artisan craft shops. San Blas is also known for its colonial architecture lining the steep cobbled streets. There was a church in the centre where there happened to be a wedding in process. The bride was dressed from head to toe in fine white lace whilst her groom looked smart in his black tuxedo and matching bow-tie. Their guests were dressed in colourful evening attire, the ladies attracted the eye in their floor length silk chiffon dresses adorned with sequins and feathers.

 

We later dined at a very good restaurant, Organika, which served healthy ‘farm to table’ food from their garden and orchard in the Sacred Valley. The walls were decorated with large photographs of the farm as well as the harvested fare, including the ubiquitous sheaths of corn and colourful potatoes in many shapes and sizes. Organika served many vegan and vegetarian dishes, alongside meat dishes – including alpaca! We learned that alpaca is a traditional Peruvian cuisine said to be similar to beef and can be served in many different ways. A traditional dish is ‘apanado de alpaca’ which is breaded alpaca served with rice, potatoes and salad. 

 

Our time in Peru was a relatively swift trip but certainly comprehensive enough for us to experience the culture and history of this unique country, while getting to know some of its warm and welcoming people. I would definitely venture back there one day to discover the Peruvian Amazon as well as the ‘lost city’ of Choquequirao …