LIMA, PERU 2016

We flew to Peru in the month of November, our first stop being Lima where we stayed in the Hotel Antigua Miraflores. This traditional Spanish-colonial style mansion or ‘casona’ was built in 1923 and still retains its authenticity with its brightly coloured stucco walls, arched doorways and windows, together with checkerboard floor tiles. We chose to dine in its bar-restaurant, seated in upholstered armchairs around a low wooden table bedecked with plates of sautéed chilli shrimp, sweet potato purée and panfried green beans. 

The next day we visited central Lima, namely its emblematic cathedral with its sculpted portal and twin bell towers that loom over Plaza Mayor. Founded in the 16^th century, this magnificent basilica is the burial place of Francisco Pizarro, the notorious conqueror of Peru. We then meandered around the cloisters of a Dominican convent, in the centre of which stands a gushing fountain, whilst its decorative walls are painted by the Cusco school of artists and its ornate tiles are from Seville. Bordering Plaza St Martin were a series of small restaurants popular with local businessmen. We selected one that was bustling with trade and served succulent ceviche whose large pieces of fish had been cured in a spicy citrus-based marinade, ‘leche de tigre’ (tiger’s milk), the ingredients of which are lime juice, fish stock, red onion, garlic, chiles and coriander. This was served with sweet potato and ‘choclo’ – very large kernels of corn that have a starchy texture.

We enjoyed exploring Barranco, a very bohemian district on account of the artists, musicians, designers and photographers who reside there. The buildings are low-rise and multicoloured, interspersed with colonial style churches. We also admired some of its old colonial mansions, one of which is home to an art gallery with an interesting collection of modern works. The highlight of Barranco was MATE, the Mario Testino gallery set in a beautiful sky blue 19^th century mansion. His collection of giant photographs are stunning, from super models to Peruvians in traditional dress. I have vivid memories of being in the ‘Diana room’ surrounded by larger than life-size photographs of the elegant Princess of Wales, looking stunning with her hair slicked back wearing a beaded white dress designed by Versace – and this very same dress is encased in the centre of the room, evoking spine shivers imagining Diana wearing it. 

 

The next day we visited one of the oldest houses in the Americas, Casa Aliaga that dates back five centuries, not long after the founding of Lima in 1535. It was built by Captain Jerónimo de Aliaga having received a plot of land from the conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Since that time the house has been inhabited by 17 generations of the Aliaga family. Over the years it has been rebuilt and refurbished after earthquakes and changes in architectural style. Its current décor transports you back to Spanish colonial time, particularly its decorative wall tiles and sweeping marble staircase that leads to the elegant salons with their ornate furnishings. The walls are adorned with large mirrors and oil paintings beside which stand various statues and other curiosities including Jerónimo de Aliaga's conquistador sword. The house can only be visited by appointment and with a private guide, which is key to learn about the historical background of the house and its occupants. 

 

The afternoon was spent at Museo Larco. Housed in a beautiful 18^th century mansion of a former viceroy, Museo Larco’s collection of pre-Columbian art dates back 5,000 years. The museum was established in 1926 by Rafael Larco Hoyle who brought together some 45,000 pieces, including decorative ceramic pots, multi-coloured textiles, gold and silver jewellery. Museo Larco is surrounded by magnificent gardens teeming with multi-coloured bougainvillea where you can lounge in one of its comfortable chairs whilst sipping an espresso in its café-restaurant. You can equally enjoy sampling creatively presented local specialities, composed by its talented culinary team. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day we walked around the district of Miraflores, a mélange of small streets with traditional buildings alongside tall high-rise modern blocks on busy streets. We visited a couple of artisanal markets brimming with brightly painted ornaments, tableware and textiles piled high. In a quiet street adjacent to our hotel we found a vegan restaurant, where we enjoyed thick slices of quiche with a decorative salad. I was tempted by its array of baked goods and chose a banana and blueberry cake for our plane journey.