Lavasina – Lourdes of the Corsican Riviera
Our adventure began on the northeast of the island, meandering along the rocky coastline bordered by Corsica’s Laricio pine. This counter clockwise coastal route was interspersed with charming villages, including Lavasina where we were to reside for a few days – in a two hundred-year-old fisherman’s cottage. This white-washed stone building adorned with powder blue shutters was on a pebble beach in the middle of an attractive cove.
It was September and the summer season had drawn to a close, so the beach was relatively quiet and only frequented by hardy locals performing their daily exercise. Corsica’s azure ocean is reputed to be relatively mild throughout the year, but I found it rather chilly in comparison to the Antilles. Yet it did not deter a couple of enthusiasts who came each morning, comically entering the water backwards in snorkel gear, streamlined trunks and skull caps. They would swim several lengths of the bay, arms crawling and heads down, presumably in contemplative thought or meditation, or perhaps optimistically hoping to spot sea life amongst the large boulders and brown seagrass. If Corsica has a reputation for good snorkelling sites, I’m afraid it was not to be found here.
Sunday saw an influx of local Corsican families, a spectrum of generations united around a Sabbath Day picnic. There were a few couples on their own, mostly middle-aged in 50s style beachwear. Reminiscent of retro French films, the ‘macho’ men in high-waisted trunks pranced like peacocks in front of their buxom wives in coverall costumes.
More modestly attired were the crowds of parishioners across the road, flocking with colourful bouquets to Lavasina’s church, Notre Dame des Grâces.
Unbeknown to us, Lavasina is called the ‘Lourdes of Corsica’ for its ‘sacred’ painting of the Madonna and child that has instigated ‘miracles’ over the past 350 years. The painting originated from Rome, in lieu of a loan settlement to a local family of wine producers; and it was the mysterious enclosure of the loan payment that accredited the painting with miraculous powers. This has subsequently attracted many devout believers to this site, seeking further miracles. And be it for health, wealth or otherwise, the numerous ex-votos certainly bear witness to the powers of possibility and positive thinking – a good philosophy for our trip around this special island.
