Monumental Music

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Considering ourselves travellers versus tourists, we always seek to avoid the beaten track; we nevertheless followed recommendations to visit one of the capital’s national monuments - Hotel Nacional de Cuba. The building itself is undoubtedly impressive, but sadly its ‘refined elegance and ancient splendour’ are somewhat tired and neglected, clearly showing that it has only been renovated once since it was first built in 1930 – and that was twenty-five years ago! 

The sparse lawns rolling down towards the ocean are a well-trodden thoroughfare for its abundant clientele – all following similar recommendations to visit this UNESCO heritage site. 

The panoramic view of the city and harbour of Havana was indeed beautiful and well worth admiring over a sundowner. We even entered into the spirit by agreeing to be serenaded by the hotel’s somewhat senior ‘Son Trio’, who graced us with ‘Chan Chan’ and ‘Bésame Mucho’ – very romantic in the pinky sunlight, enhancing our experience of Cuba’s great monument.

Bar la Lluvia de Oro

Other musical encounters were found in more rustic surroundings, namely ‘Bar la Lluvia de Oro’, whose two-tone pea green walls and cavernous setting are enhanced by its mahogany bar adorned with colourful bottles. While the catchy repertoire of its lively house band, ‘Cubano Tradición', helps to fill the voluminous space. This young local group enthusiastically played to a mixed audience of visitors/expats and Cubans; most of the latter appeared to be close friends/family of the band. 

La Mesón de la Flota

Having learned from various sources that dancing is difficult to come by in Old Havana, we opted for a colonial import at ‘La Mesón de la Flota’, whose nautical regalia certainly made one feel afloat. The energetic flamenco dancers transported us back to Spain with their rhythmic stomping, hand claps and finger clicks, alongside the echoing vocal cries of a dashing soloist. The performance was rather impressive, particularly as it was just for the benefit of a couple of tables - the day-tripping tourists were nowhere to be seen at this relatively late hour, giving us the privilege of a quasi-private show. 

Fabrica de Arte Cubano

Bar at the FAC

The real Cuban nightlife of Havana could be found at ‘Fabrica de Arte Cubano’ – a great array of art, film, music and dance set out on three floors in the vast interior of an old factory, restored in a minimalist fashion. We spent time wandering from floor to floor viewing the interesting mix of art (see ‘Cuban Art World’), before getting drinks in the vast hanger-sized bar area. Bands of the 70s/80s were projected onto an enormous screen, inciting the crowds to put on equally impressive dance routines to the likes of Earth, Wind and Fire’s ‘Boogie Wonderland’. 

The pièce de resistance was joining the crowds to watch the locally renowned musician/composer William Vivanco, whose great reggae pop "with a touch of bossa nova, blues and rap" was most infectious. He was also an impressive performer, energetically moving around the stage in time to the beat, alluring us until the small hours of the morning, before our vintage chariot safely transported us ‘home’.