MACHU PICCHU, PERU 2016

We caught the train to Aguas Calientes, the base where one stays in order to visit Machu Picchu. The town itself was consequently overrun by tourists enjoying its themed restaurants serving international food versus local Peruvian cuisine. Our hotel was a saving grace, a boutique hotel a distance away from this commercial centre. Our room overlooked the river below whose fast flowing water cascaded over large boulders. Traditional tapestries decorated the walls and floor of our room, and also served as a bedspread. A large log fire helped to take the chill off the room, while creating a cosy ambiance. We enjoyed relaxing in the jacuzzi, complete with flickering candles that enhanced its calming effects. We managed to find a traditional restaurant close to our hotel, albeit rather stark and characterless. Thankfully its food made up for its misgivings; I relished a trout ceviche served with corn and sweet potato. 

 

It was then an early night in readiness for our five o’clock start the next day, soon after which we were met by a very long line of people queuing for the five-thirty bus to Machu Picchu. For approximately thirty minutes the said bus wound its way up the zig-zagging road that seemed to get steeper and steeper. We passed by many hardy and determined hikers, similar to pilgrims on a religious pursuit.

On our arrival we decided to avoid the tourists flocking into the citadel by climbing the large mountain, Machu Picchu. We scaled its steep stone steps for a good hour and a half, which was somewhat challenging, especially as we had very few pauses to rest, endeavouring to get to the top for its magnificent views. It was a rather precarious path, no guard rails to protect hikers from the sheer cliff face. At the summit we had a breathtaking view of the citadel, built at an elevation of 2,350 metres on a saddle between the sharp peaks of Huayna Picchu and Macchu Pichu, high above the Urubamba River flowing in the valley below. We had brought along our book of poems by Pablo Neruda, ‘The Heights of Machu Picchu’, which made for very poignant reading in situ.

 

 

 

 

The descent was relatively easier and we also took time to enjoy a picnic lunch followed by a coffee in the Belmond café. By the time we went back to the citadel it was practically devoid of tourists. It was rather surreal exploring this 15^th century Inca fortress, imagining how it used to be all those years ago. Still intact, the walls and foundations within the fortress were miraculously fused together without any mortar. I was in awe of the Inca’s advanced expertise, cleverly aligning buildings to harmonise with the astronomical environment thereby guiding their agricultural practices. Hidden in the deep forest, the Incas of Machu Picchu managed to escape detection by the Spaniards; it was not until 1911 that explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered this ancient fortress. 

 

The Heights of Macchu Picchu

By Pablo Naruda

 

Then up the ladder of the earth I climbed

through the barbed jungle’s thickets

until I reached you Macchu Picchu.

 

Tall city of stepped stone,

home at long last of whatever earth

had never hidden in her sleeping clothes.

In you two lineages that had run parallel

met where the cradle both of man and light

rocked in the wind of thorns.

 

Mother of stone and sperm of condors.

 

High reef of human dawn.

 

Spade buried in primordial sand.

 

This was the habitation, this is the site:

here the fat grains of maize grew high

to fall again like red hail.

 

The fleece of the vicuña was carded here

to clothe men’s loves in gold, their tombs and mothers,

the king, the prayer, the warriors.

 

Up here men’s feet found rest at night

near eagles’ talons in the high

meat-stuffed eyries. And in the dawn

with thunder steps they trod the thinning mists,

touching the earth and stones that they might recognize

that touch come night, come death.

 

I gaze at clothes and hands,

traces of shed water in the booming cistern,

a wall burnished by the touch of a face

that witnessed with my eyes the earth’s carpet of tapers,

oiled with my hands the vanished wood:

for everything, apparel, skin, pots, words,

wine, loaves, had disappeared,

fallen to earth.

 

And the air came in with lemon blossom fingers

to touch those sleeping faces:

a thousand years of air, months, weeks of air,

blue wind and iron cordilleras –

these came with gentle footsteps hurricanes

cleansing the lonely precinct of the stone.

The following day proceeded at a more relaxed pace, enjoying a lie-in while reflecting on the previous day’s events. This was before catching the train to Ollantaytambo from where we travelled by taxi to Cusco. We spent the best part of the afternoon at San Pedro market, a diverse mix of local fresh food, including huge sacks of different types of quinoa alongside many varieties of potatoes – Peru is said to have over 4,000 potato species in a multitude of colours ranging from yellow to purple, pink, blue and red. In addition to this were stalls selling meat, cheeses, bread, fruit and vegetables as well as flowers and artisanal goods – mainly textiles such as ponchos, sweaters, scarves, blankets and tapestries, all made from fine alpaca wool. There was also ‘street food’ on offer, which was popular with locals and tourists alike.

Not far from the market we found a coffee specialist, selling a host of different types of beans in a variety of strengths and flavours, each with incredibly rich aromas. We took his recommendation and had an espresso that was velvety on the palate with a delicate balance of sweet and bitter notes.

 

We then walked to the San Blas quarter, often referred to as the historic cultural district of Cusco where there are many art galleries interspersed with artisan craft shops. San Blas is also known for its colonial architecture lining the steep cobbled streets. There was a church in the centre where there happened to be a wedding in process. The bride was dressed from head to toe in fine white lace whilst her groom looked smart in his black tuxedo and matching bow-tie. Their guests were dressed in colourful evening attire, the ladies attracted the eye in their floor length silk chiffon dresses adorned with sequins and feathers.

 

We later dined at a very good restaurant, Organika, which served healthy ‘farm to table’ food from their garden and orchard in the Sacred Valley. The walls were decorated with large photographs of the farm as well as the harvested fare, including the ubiquitous sheaths of corn and colourful potatoes in many shapes and sizes. Organika served many vegan and vegetarian dishes, alongside meat dishes – including alpaca! We learned that alpaca is a traditional Peruvian cuisine said to be similar to beef and can be served in many different ways. A traditional dish is ‘apanado de alpaca’ which is breaded alpaca served with rice, potatoes and salad. 

 

Our time in Peru was a relatively swift trip but certainly comprehensive enough for us to experience the culture and history of this unique country, while getting to know some of its warm and welcoming people. I would definitely venture back there one day to discover the Peruvian Amazon as well as the ‘lost city’ of Choquequirao …

 

 CUSCO & THE SACRED VALLEY, PERU 2016

The next day we travelled by bus to the Inca capital Cusco. This was an interesting eight-hour journey passing through undulating barren terrain. We were to stay in a very smart hotel, a colonial-style hacienda built around a courtyard. The afternoon was spent exploring the city whose architecture epitomises Spanish colonialism with its thick white stucco walls and exteriors, together with its curves, arches, terracotta roof tiles and ornamental ironwork on balconies. This architecture is interspersed with impressive stone buildings such as Cusco’s imposing cathedral. The centre of Cusco was rather crowded relative to the more tranquil areas that we found by following the winding back streets. We stumbled across a café-restaurant called Greens, where we sipped fragrant lemongrass tea whilst perusing the menu. This enticed us to return there later for dinner when I relished a salad of piquant goat’s cheese atop roasted root vegetables.

 

The following morning we visited a couple of museums, one showing pre-Columbian art, principally vessels made of clay representing religious symbols. Whereas the contemporary art museum showed colourful geometric patterns by renowned Peruvian artists. Later that day we had a coffee lounging on an elegant sofa in front of a blazing fire of the Monasterio hotel, a former monastery that has been elegantly renovated, now providing luxurious comfort.

 

In the Andes to the north of Cusco lies the Urubamba Valley, otherwise known as the Sacred Valley, which we were to explore with the well-informed historian, Carlos Mendivil. We first stopped at a farm where we saw many different species of lamas and alpacas, differentiated by their size and coats. They were rather tame allowing us to feed them and stroke their soft fleecy fur. We then drove to Pisac archaeological park where the well-preserved ruins consist of agricultural terraces, former residences, guard posts, watch towers and ceremonial religious centres. These ruins stand above the town of Pisac, famous for its artisanal market selling handicrafts, including alpaca wool woven into patterned textiles. 

 

 

 

Our next stop was Ollantaytambo, the administrative centre of the Inca empire, considered a fortress for its imposing monuments. In its prime, it was a well-structured and organised city composed of urban sectors, palaces, temples, observation points, terraces, platforms and storage areas. I was fascinated by the immense size of the rocks, so tightly slotted together that not even a credit card can fit in between the seams.

We then visited Moray where the Incas had carved rows of concentric circular terraces into the hillside to grow a variety of crops. They effectively formed micro-climates at each level in order to carry out crop growing experiments based on the temperature differences. The primary crops grown were corn, potatoes and quinoa. 

 

 

The Maras salt mines were a spectacular sight to witness, consisting of terrace upon terrace of more than three thousand individual pools of different sizes and dimensions. These pools are fed by an underground salt water source located higher up the mountain. The Maras salt pools were first constructed by the Incas around eight hundred years ago and are still in use today. 

 

 

PUNO & LAKE TITICACA, PERU 2016

We flew from Lima to Puno, a city in southern Peru on Lake Titicaca, one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable body of water at 3,800 metres. The city is considered to be Peru's ‘folkloric capital’ on account of its traditional festivals featuring vibrant music and dancing. Nevertheless, the city itself was rather characterless and many parts of it were still under construction. After a smooth journey we were pleased to arrive at Hotel Casa Andina, reminiscent of a wooden chalet in a ski resort, it was akin to an oasis in this scruffy city. We went straight to bed in readiness for our early start the next day.

 

We travelled by boat to explore the islands of Lake Titicaca starting with the Uros floating islands, which were originally built to escape attacks by the Incas. The islands are made of layers of totora roots, a plant that is part of the bulrush family. The Uros tribe’s livelihood was traditionally based on weaving, fishing, hunting waterfowl and collecting birds’ eggs. However, nowadays they have adopted modern habits, using solar panels for electricity and earning money from the many tourists who visit the island. Their traditional totora boats are now used for display purposes only as they have motor boats to ferry them to and from the mainland to purchase supplies, be it food or other practical goods.

 

By contrast, Amantani island is very authentic, where Philamena welcomed us into her humble home. Amantani is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and preservation of ancient customs. The local communities engage in farming, fishing, and handicrafts for their subsistence livelihood. The indigenous of Amantani are vegetarian, surviving on what they grow and harvest. Philamena prepared us a simple lunch of quinoa soup followed by an omelette made with sliced potato, onions and dotted with tomatoes. This nutritious meal fortified us for a hike to the summit of Pachatata. Standing at 4,200 metres, it is one of two mountains on the island, the other being Pachamama. The high altitude made it rather tiring to ascend the steep slopes, and it was a lot colder than we expected. We were thus pleased to find a small café half-way up, where we cupped our hands around mugs of cinnamon spiced hot chocolate. After a simple supper of quinoa soup (again) and steamed fresh vegetables, we dressed up in an assortment of handwoven traditional costumes to attend the village fiesta. It was fun mixing with the villagers who encouraged us to join in their dances. However, my husband Philip soon discovered that the altitude did not mix well with beer, and subsequently suffered a migraine. We thus left relatively early to slumber in our simple yet comfortable accommodation, where layers of thick tapestry bedspreads kept us warm.

The next morning Philamena served us pancakes made with quinoa flour, which I helped grind using a flat rock rubbed against another, akin to millstones yet rather laborious by hand. We drank muña tea that assists with digestion as well as altitude sickness – a welcomed remedy for Philip. 

 

 

Soon after breakfast, we bid farewell to Philamena and then set off by boat to our next destination, the small island of Taquile. We scaled the sheer incline that led to the village with its main plaza, which stand at 3,950 metres. Taquile is sparsely populated by a fascinating creative community renowned for its handwoven textiles and clothing, mostly made out of alpaca wool. It is customary for the men to knit, beginning in early boyhood, whereas the women spin and dye the wool. We learned that one of the conditions of marriage is for the potential groom to knit a watertight hat, to be presented and judged by the prospective bride’s father. If the hat leaks then there is no marriage until success is achieved by subsequent attempts.

 

 

 

 

While Amantani is a vegetarian island, the inhabitants of Taquile are pescatarian. The fresh whole trout that we were served in a wooden hut-come-restaurant indicating that Taquilan’s creative skills also extend to fishing. With stomachs replete we headed back to the boat, which then steadily motored its way back to Puno. On our arrival we were greeted by throngs of jubilant revellers celebrating a local feast day in the main plaza. Clad in brightly coloured costumes, they danced in time to the music in honour of this festive occasion. After watching this fascinating display, we tracked down a café that had been recommended. Set in a 17^th century mansion, La Casa del Corregidor is also a fair trade boutique selling decorative arts and crafts. I chose a slice of their delicious quinoa and orange cake, which I savoured with a cup of muña tea; I then realised that I had eaten quinoa for the past four meals!

 

LIMA, PERU 2016

We flew to Peru in the month of November, our first stop being Lima where we stayed in the Hotel Antigua Miraflores. This traditional Spanish-colonial style mansion or ‘casona’ was built in 1923 and still retains its authenticity with its brightly coloured stucco walls, arched doorways and windows, together with checkerboard floor tiles. We chose to dine in its bar-restaurant, seated in upholstered armchairs around a low wooden table bedecked with plates of sautéed chilli shrimp, sweet potato purée and panfried green beans. 

The next day we visited central Lima, namely its emblematic cathedral with its sculpted portal and twin bell towers that loom over Plaza Mayor. Founded in the 16^th century, this magnificent basilica is the burial place of Francisco Pizarro, the notorious conqueror of Peru. We then meandered around the cloisters of a Dominican convent, in the centre of which stands a gushing fountain, whilst its decorative walls are painted by the Cusco school of artists and its ornate tiles are from Seville. Bordering Plaza St Martin were a series of small restaurants popular with local businessmen. We selected one that was bustling with trade and served succulent ceviche whose large pieces of fish had been cured in a spicy citrus-based marinade, ‘leche de tigre’ (tiger’s milk), the ingredients of which are lime juice, fish stock, red onion, garlic, chiles and coriander. This was served with sweet potato and ‘choclo’ – very large kernels of corn that have a starchy texture.

We enjoyed exploring Barranco, a very bohemian district on account of the artists, musicians, designers and photographers who reside there. The buildings are low-rise and multicoloured, interspersed with colonial style churches. We also admired some of its old colonial mansions, one of which is home to an art gallery with an interesting collection of modern works. The highlight of Barranco was MATE, the Mario Testino gallery set in a beautiful sky blue 19^th century mansion. His collection of giant photographs are stunning, from super models to Peruvians in traditional dress. I have vivid memories of being in the ‘Diana room’ surrounded by larger than life-size photographs of the elegant Princess of Wales, looking stunning with her hair slicked back wearing a beaded white dress designed by Versace – and this very same dress is encased in the centre of the room, evoking spine shivers imagining Diana wearing it. 

 

The next day we visited one of the oldest houses in the Americas, Casa Aliaga that dates back five centuries, not long after the founding of Lima in 1535. It was built by Captain Jerónimo de Aliaga having received a plot of land from the conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Since that time the house has been inhabited by 17 generations of the Aliaga family. Over the years it has been rebuilt and refurbished after earthquakes and changes in architectural style. Its current décor transports you back to Spanish colonial time, particularly its decorative wall tiles and sweeping marble staircase that leads to the elegant salons with their ornate furnishings. The walls are adorned with large mirrors and oil paintings beside which stand various statues and other curiosities including Jerónimo de Aliaga's conquistador sword. The house can only be visited by appointment and with a private guide, which is key to learn about the historical background of the house and its occupants. 

 

The afternoon was spent at Museo Larco. Housed in a beautiful 18^th century mansion of a former viceroy, Museo Larco’s collection of pre-Columbian art dates back 5,000 years. The museum was established in 1926 by Rafael Larco Hoyle who brought together some 45,000 pieces, including decorative ceramic pots, multi-coloured textiles, gold and silver jewellery. Museo Larco is surrounded by magnificent gardens teeming with multi-coloured bougainvillea where you can lounge in one of its comfortable chairs whilst sipping an espresso in its café-restaurant. You can equally enjoy sampling creatively presented local specialities, composed by its talented culinary team. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day we walked around the district of Miraflores, a mélange of small streets with traditional buildings alongside tall high-rise modern blocks on busy streets. We visited a couple of artisanal markets brimming with brightly painted ornaments, tableware and textiles piled high. In a quiet street adjacent to our hotel we found a vegan restaurant, where we enjoyed thick slices of quiche with a decorative salad. I was tempted by its array of baked goods and chose a banana and blueberry cake for our plane journey.