Su Gologone, Sardinia 2024

 

  

Nestled in the verdant mountainside of Barbagia in Sardinia is the unique hotel Su Gologone. This white-washed stone building with its terracotta roof is camouflaged within creatively landscaped gardens abundant with fragrant junipers, aloe veras, prickly pears and tropical palms. 

 

It was the month of August and we were to spend three nights in this wonderful location, honouring my husband Philip’s special birthday. 

 

Named after a natural spring, Su Gologone was initially established as a restaurant in 1967 by Giuseppe ‘Peppeddu’ Palimodde. With the help of his wife, Pasqua Salis Palimodde, they offered traditional Sardinian cuisine. This sumptuous fare gained popularity attracting people from different parts of the island and even further afield. This
success led Peppeddu and Pasqua to provide accommodation for their clientele, initially eight rooms which have since increased to seventy-one. This artistically furnished accommodation has been so cleverly designed that the rooms are almost hidden within the mountainside, leaving guests to feel like they are staying in a rustic farmhouse. Su Gologone is now managed by three generations of the Palimodde family, Pasquia, her daughter Giovanna and her granddaughter Camilla. Together they share their love of the island and its artistic and culinary culture with their guests. This hospitality is equally shown by their staff, which adds to the warm ambiance of Su Gologone.

 

 

The beautiful arts and crafts that furnish Su Gologone can be found in the Botteghe d’Arte. Colourful embroidery and textiles sit alongside ceramics and glassware, as well as woodwork and wrought iron creations. In addition you can find beauty and household products made with essential oils from locally grown aromatic herbs. All of these have been created by skilled artisans who offer guests the opportunity to learn their trade.

 

 

Each evening we enjoyed sipping apéritifs in the Bar Magico Tablao, watching the sun go down whilst lounging under canvas awnings on the tapestry cushion-strewn white wooden benches. Open to the public as well as guests, this select venue attracts sophisticated clientele parading the latest fashion trends. 

 

 

From here we would wander to one of the themed restaurants, starting with l’Orto (vegetable garden) on our first night. We dined under the stars overlooking neatly planted rows of herbs and vegetables safeguarded by a colourful scarecrow. The creative garden-to-table tasting menu consisted of carefully combined ingredients exuding exquisite flavours. We particularly enjoyed the Sardinian pasta, fregola, served with a mélange of roasted vegetables. We sat on multi-coloured wooden chairs surrounding a juniper table over which vine tomatoes, chilli peppers and aromatic herbs were decoratively suspended. It was certainly a memorable moment to be savoured.

 

 

The next night we enjoyed Il Nido del Pane (Nest of Bread) where we witnessed the ancient art of breadmaking in the old wood-fired oven. We were greeted by the chefs dressed in traditional Sardinian costumes busy at work creating dishes whose aromas whetted our appetites. We dined on the open-air roof terrace where we were presented with creative culinary concoctions such as cocconeddas (a type of gourd) filled with potatoes and wild herbs, flat bread topped with roasted cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves … concluded with a meringue nest filled with ricotta and blueberry compote.

 

 

 

After this splendid meal we wandered down to the Terrace of Dreams and Desires where a group of local tenors performed traditional accapella folk songs. Dressed in black these five gentlemen stood in a circle facing one another as they sang. It was fascinating to hear a part of the island’s musical heritage.

 

 

Our final night’s meal was in the formal dining room, otherwise known as The Traditional Restaurant, which overlooked the gardens and mountainside beyond. Its colourful wooden furniture was bedecked with place settings for its honoured guests, while senses were aroused by the aromas coming from the rustic fireplace where whole pigs were being slowly roasted on spits. We perused the menu that began with al dente petit pois, asparagus and porcini mushrooms from the kitchen garden. This was followed by a variety of homemade pasta dishes from which I selected a delicious wild fennel ravioli. Philip chose the roasted pork accompanied by crunchy potatoes. The chefs at the hotel are skilled in preparing fine Sardinian cuisine following recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation, offering guests an authentic culinary experience. 

 

 

This extends to the opulent breakfast that we savoured every day, from freshly pressed fruit juices to different types of yoghurt, including local goat. There was a choice of toasted granola and muesli, along with homemade bread fresh from the oven. Ten different types of baked cakes were made with healthy ingredients such as berries, stone or citrus fruit and sprinkled with roasted almonds. The colourful fruit platter included peaches, apricots and honeydew melon. Whilst there was a variety of cheeses and charcuterie or eggs of your choice.

 

Breakfast was followed by time relaxing by the extensive pool, where we swam in the refreshing water and read books lounging on sunbeds under the shade of a parasol. There were very few people frequenting the pool area, creating a peaceful ambiance and allowing me to swim laps practically undisturbed. I had the pleasure of a therapeutic massage in the spa, where a skilled masseuse used firm manoeuvres to ‘relax muscles and improve circulation’, while applying a fragrant essential oil. I certainly felt its calming benefits afterwards.

 

One afternoon we explored the environs, walking the 10 minutes down to Su Gologone natural spring where water cascaded over boulders. I found a prickly pear whose sweet syrupy fruit I foolishly tasted thinking that I could avoid the fine prickles. Instead a couple of invisible thorns embedded themselves in my bottom lip and left me feeling like a bee had stung my lip – I certainly learned my lesson. Another afternoon we walked in the mountains and saw a shepherd’s hut made out of a circular stone base on top of which sat a wigwam of sticks. The stone base could be confused with a nuraghe, an ancient megalithic edifice found in Sardinia and built during the Nuragic Age between 1900 and 730 BC. The use of these nuraghes is disputed, some say they were sovereigns’ residences, military strongholds, meeting places or religious temples; while others claim they were ordinary dwellings or used for a combination of these purposes. 

 

 

 

Our elegantly decorated room was a comfortable place to spend time with its traditional furnishings combined with designer pieces as well as locally embroidered bedlinen and cushions. We could equally stretch out on the daybed under an awning on the terrace whilst perusing one of the beautifully illustrated art books. 

 

 

This was our first visit to Sardinia and our magical experience at Su Gologone certainly enhanced our impression of the country and its culture. It was the perfect way to celebrate a significant birthday and we would love to return there one day in the foreseeable future.

 

 SICILY 2023

 

Acireale & Catania

We next stayed in an apartment in Acireale, an authentic Sicilian town off the tourist track. From here we visited Catania, a coastal town renowned for its lively fish market, where glistening fresh fish and crustaceans were on display. Whereas other stalls were selling plates of cooked fish, which we bought to take home for lunch. I later tracked down a local delicatessen to try the region’s caponata. It was very good with just the right combination of sweet and sour ingredients – the sultanas and sweetened red onion and tomato sauce perfectly complemented the aubergine, celery, capers and olives. The caponata was accompanied by a full-bodied Sicilian wine from the Corleone vineyard, reminding us of Vito Corleone, the role Marlon Brando played in The Godfather.

 

 

 

 

Taormina

The next day we visited the hill top town of Taormina, which was the setting for a popular television series, White Lotus. This subsequently attracted crowds of tourists filling the tiny streets that led up to its main square. Taormina’s amphitheatre was less frequented, its location at the top of the hill requiring more stamina. Built in the 3rd century BC, this Greek theatre was first established to accommodate musical concerts and dramatic performances. It was then adapted by the Romans for their more combative forms of entertainment. We were keen to have a drink at the hotel where White Lotus was filmed, but were met at the gate by the concierge informing us that only residents could enter the hotel. I am sure many others had likewise been turned away, their curiosity unfulfilled. We thus returned to the main square to have a refreshing drink looking out at the coastline and blue waters beyond – the same view we would have had from the hotel.

 

We had spent time researching places to dine that evening, looking for a typical Sicilian restaurant. The one that we had chosen was closed for a private party, so our second option was a small fish restaurant in Acireale’s small port. This seemed idyllic online, but in reality it looked sad and bleak, being the off-season. We then chose the family-run trattoria, La Locanda degli Abbatazzi, which was full on our arrival, so we were offered a table directly by the kitchen or another by the main door. Both tables were similar in terms of disturbance by the side of a busy thoroughfare. We chose the former option, which was free from draught but instead had a banging swing door every time the waiting staff went in and out. We were rather miffed as I had booked ahead of time using my best Italian, but it was obvious that locals were given priority. Luckily, before our meal had arrived a couple vacated a table in the window, which we appreciated all the more after this little episode. I then relished spaghetti vongole with a Sicilian orange salad, while Philip enjoyed local fish encrusted with Bronte pistachios. These nuts are grown on the slopes of Mount Etna and known as ‘green gold’ for their high quality. 

 

Acireale was holding a festival in honour of a saint, so there was a convivial ambiance in the church square with a band playing lively music. There were also stalls selling vintage clothes and records together with artisanal crafts. We sat on the terrace of one of the many cafés to have a post-prandial coffee and soon noticed that a couple next to us were eating something that looked very appetizing. On enquiring what it was we learned that it was a cannoli, a Sicilian tube-shaped pastry that is filled with ricotta and sprinkled with the 'green gold' pistachio nuts. They highly recommended us to try one, saying that it was very authentic, made to order to keep the pastry crisp. We subsequently introduced ourselves to this couple and shared travel stories; the lady was a retired physician while her husband had been involved in real estate. They lived on the mainland of Italy and had an apartment in Acireale, which they regularly frequented. 

 

Mount Etna

The next day we visited Mount Etna, which was shrouded in grey cloud creating a rather bleak mournful ambiance. We drove up to the chair lift where there were coach loads of people getting off to embark on a hike up the mountain. The temperature was a lot cooler at this altitude of 2,000 metres. The landscape was quite barren, the sparse green vegetation contrasting with the grey lava. We found a copse mid-way up the mountain where we did a circular walk at a brisk pace to keep warm. Under foot were small pieces of lava, which crunched with each pace as though we were walking on demerara sugar. 

 

We had our final evening in the apartment, getting ready to leave this fascinating country where we had encountered many contrasts ... modern buildings in the poorer suburban areas, together with older structures neglected and decayed in some of the cities such as Palermo. What’s more, driving around the island, we had witnessed the roadsides strewn with litter, particularly on the highways. But this was counterbalanced by the impressive architecture in hilltop towns, in addition to captivating historical sites dating back many centuries. The Sicilian people we had encountered were warm and welcoming, producing sumptuous cuisine from crunchy granita to flavoursome caponata. These contrasts made for a fascinating trip on an island offering a plethora of sites and sights to satisfy one’s curiosity.

 SICILY 2023

Noto

We then stayed in Noto, which was my favourite town of all those previously visited in Sicily. Its fine baroque architecture in soft limestone gleamed in the sunshine as we walked around its attractive seldom frequented streets. We stayed in a hilltop apartment that was stuck in a 50s time warp, typically Sicilian with retro furniture that would not be out of place in a scene from The Godfather. It had a large balcony off the sitting room, which overlooked the town below.

 

From Noto we visited the picturesque historic towns of Modica and Scicli. The former had a sweeping staircase that led up to its Cathedral, whilst the latter had a paved pedestrianised street said to be one of the most beautiful in the world.  

 

That evening we dined at a lovely restaurant, Dammuso, which served well-presented delicious food. Its vaulted ceiling created a cave-like ambiance, which was elegant in its simplicity. I chose breaded sardines stuffed with sultanas and pine kernels, plus a Sicilian salad consisting of fennel and orange. My husband Philip chose a type of bouillabaisse, rich with local fish and seafood. This was accompanied by a good Sicilian wine. 

 

Ortigia

The next day we visited Syracuse primarily to see Ortigia, the historic centre on an island connected by a bridge. Ortigia was established as a fortified settlement during the time of the Ancient Greeks more than 2,400 years ago. It became the most important Greek city in the entire nation and the most impressive. Its narrow streets open up to a main plaza where we had drinks in a café before visiting its cathedral whose ornate interior contrasts with a simple side chapel bearing an icon-like crucifix. We also visited the Arethusa fountain, a fresh water spring just a few metres away from the salt water of the Mediterranean sea.

 

 

Ortigia gives its name to an elegant range of beauty products and fragrances, beautifully presented in decorative packaging. We had previously encountered these products in a smart hotel and had since bought the diffuser, which coincidentally needed a new refill that we duly purchased.

 

Syracuse

We returned to Syracuse a few days later to see the archaeological park where there is a very well-preserved Roman amphitheatre and Greek theatre. Built in the 5^th century BC, the Greek theatre was carved into the hillside and can seat 5,000 people. It was one of the largest in the Greek empire. It is still in use today, staging classic Greek plays as well as contemporary productions. The Roman amphitheatre is an oval theatre built up from the ground dating back 2,000 years. It was used for combat sports, namely gladiator fights, chariot races, animal slaying and executions. It was rather eerie to imagine these brutal battles taking place, the torturing of animals and fellow human beings considered as entertainment. By contrast, we had a picnic in the peaceful gardens of the Madonna delle Lacrime (Sanctuary of the Virgin of Tears), a modern basilica shaped like a wigwam. This was followed by espressos in a nearby café frequented by local business men and women seemingly on their lunch break. 

 

 

SICILY 2023 

Culcasi Salina

On leaving Trapani we visited the impressive salina of the Culcasi family who have been producing and marketing artisanal sea salt for over 100 years. They still use the same traditional method of harvesting salt whereby sea water is dried by the sun. The process takes place in a series of clay-lined pools in which the sea water circulates by means of pumps. We walked around the low walls dividing these salt flats, witnessing how the dried salt crystals are gathered in mounds. The landscape was like a patchwork quilt whose colours ranged from metallic grey to brilliant white with hints of rose. While the salty air had notes of sulphur, yet not too unpleasant given the cool breeze. We visited the museum whose windmill was once used to grind the salt, but now remains a showpiece for visitors to admire its multiple wooden cogs and large sails projecting into the blue sky. 

 

Selinunte

We later explored Selinunte archaeological park, said to be one of the largest in the Mediterranean. Amongst the remains of this 5^th century BC Greek city we found an impressively restored temple and many foundations of former buildings. I had somehow twisted my ankle so we did not see the whole site, but simply stayed in the main temple from where we could read about its fascinating history.

 

Agrigento

In the late afternoon we arrived in Agrigento where we stayed in the historic part of town. The apartment was rather sombre and overcluttered with heavy furniture, and amongst the décor were price tags on bottles of liqueurs, bars of soap and facecloths. What’s more there was a €2 fee for using the kitchen facilities – a strange but true sum. The redeeming factor was a small balcony off the bedroom, which had a magnificent view of the Valley of the Temples. It was slightly obscured by an ugly modern apartment block in the new part of town, which no sane urban planner would allow unless subjected to a threat of the mafia kind. 

 

 

Back to the Valley of the Temples, which is in fact a misnomer as these eight Greek doric temples stand on a plateau just outside Agrigento. Built between 510BC and 430BC, this UNESCO world heritage archaeological site is one of Sicily’s remarkable historic attractions. It is far more frequented than Segesta and Selinunte and consequently protected by fences to prevent erosion from people trampling on these historic structures. As much as I accepted this practical precaution, it made me favour the former sites where I could enter, touch and sit on these ancient stone temples, in deep reverie of times past.

 

 

After leaving the apartment we visited the Farm Cultural Park which describes itself as ‘a hothouse of social innovation’. It brings together a community of locals and creative talents to work on problems and intervention strategies to create cultural transformations in urban spaces. It was fascinating seeing the exhibits that featured various eco-projects, namely Arcosanti an experimental town in Arizona the purpose of which is to combine architecture and ecology. The Farm Cultural Park itself was well-designed, white washed buildings interspersed with multi-coloured tiled walls eccentrically adorned with plastic pink dolphins and snails by an internationally renowned group of artists ‘Cracking Art’. These artists aim ‘to radically change the history of art through a strong social and environmental commitment’. They use re-cycled plastic for their artworks, taking it from its toxic role in nature, while communicating the importance of respecting the planet. We enjoyed sitting under a canvas awning, part of the café which served deliciously rich espressos by the brand Moak, the best we had sampled so far during this trip.

 

Romana del Casale

We then visited the UNESCO World Heritage Villa, Romana del Casale, an elaborate Roman villa whose floors are decorated with extremely well-preserved mosaics, said to be the finest anywhere from the Roman period. We wandered from room to room on a glass walkway above the mosaics to preserve them. These mosaics are exceptional for their magnitude as well as their artistic quality, the fine mélange of colours and accuracy of the designs. There are many hunting scenes, intricate patterns and even bikini-clad women engaged in sporting activities. It was hard to believe that these incredible designs date back to the 4^th century AD.